Bathroom Remodel in Laporte, CO. Free, no-pressure estimates.
A bathroom remodel usually starts with a homeowner frustrated by cracked tile, a leaky shower pan, or a vanity that’s too small for the family’s toothbrushes. Maybe the floor feels spongy near the toilet, or the exhaust fan hasn’t worked in years. You’re not after a magazine cover—you want a room that dries out properly, cleans easily, and doesn’t waste water.
We start by isolating the water and power, then strip the room to studs and subfloor. New plumbing gets roughed in with PEX lines and a Schluter shower pan or a fiberglass base. We hang moisture-resistant drywall, tape the seams with mesh tape and setting-type compound, then lay porcelain tile over a decoupling membrane. Final trim includes a solid-surface vanity top, a Moen faucet, and a Panasonic vent fan ducted to the outside.
The biggest cost driver is the shower: a prefab insert runs less than a custom tile pan with a linear drain. Access matters—a third-floor walk-up with no staging area adds a day to material hauling. Wall condition shifts the schedule: if the studs are rotted behind the tub, we stop and sister them before tiling. Material choices like marble versus ceramic tile change the labor time for cutting and polishing.
On the morning of demo, we lay 6-mil poly over your hallway floors and tape a zipper door across the bathroom doorway. We haul debris out each afternoon and sweep the job site. Before we arrive, clear the room of toiletries, towels, and rugs. After we finish, you’ll need to wait 24 hours for thinset to cure before walking on tile, and 48 hours before caulking around the tub.
A pre-sloped foam pan with a bonded waterproof membrane. No mortar bed, no weep holes to clog, and a drywall-ready flange that keeps tile flush.
If the old shower wall had no poly behind the cement board, moisture wicked into the studs. We always install a 6-mil vapor barrier behind the backer.

Pull out the old tub, vanity, and toilet. Cap the water lines, disconnect the drain, and strip the drywall. Inspect the subfloor for rot and sister any bad joists.
Run new PEX supply lines to the shower valve and vanity. Wire a GFCI outlet, the exhaust fan, and a vapor-tight light fixture. Install a Panasonic fan with a humidity sensor.
Hang cement board, tape the seams with alkali-resistant mesh, and apply a liquid waterproof membrane. Set the tile with a 1/4-inch notch trowel, then install the vanity, toilet, and shower door.
Caulk the tub-to-tile joint with 100% silicone, install the escutcheon plates, and adjust the door hinges. Run the fan for 24 hours to cure the caulk, then hand the keys back.
We waterproof the shower pan and curb before any tile goes up. A flood test at the drain flange catches leaks before the grout is ever mixed.
We pull the old toilet and probe the subfloor with a screwdriver. If the wood is soft, we cut out the rot and patch in new plywood before setting the new flange.
Every bathroom fan gets rigid duct to the roof cap, not flex hose stuffed into the attic. A backdraft damper keeps cold air from dropping in overnight.
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